I WANT TO GET A REPAIR, HOW DO I START THE PROCESS?
Applications open for repairs every 3 months and all repair work is done via mail-order. Sign up for the email list (at the bottom of this page) to get exclusive access to the repair application on that day and to be notified when books open. When I open submissions you'll upload a few photos of your jeans and fill out the application that tells me a little bit about your jean and what you're looking to have repaired. I then look over the submissions and get in touch with you with the details on how to send them in - this can take a week or so depending on how many submissions I receive. I will also contact you if for some reason your jean is not a great fit for repair, so either way you'll hear from me! Most jeans are accepted, but there are instances where, for example, a jean is too stretchy, the damage is too severe (--if you know me this is pretty rare but it can happen) or it has been repaired too many times and I'm unable to rework it in a successful way.
Each application is for one item, max of 2 individual entries per person. The list is emailed each time books open, so if you don’t want to continue receiving emails each open period you can leave the list at any time, and rejoin when you are ready for a repair again. Or just hang out and receive updates.
Applying with your jean ensures that your pair is the right fit for a repair. The purpose is not to turn down work or judge you but instead to pre-screen the jean and types of repairs needed so I can first make sure the jean is repairable in its current condition, and second so I can more accurately schedule the work in the queue. I want to make sure all jeans I receive get the beautiful and long lasting repair they deserve, and this screening allows me to ensure you’re getting the quality repair your jeans deserve- otherwise what are you paying me for?? So if you’d like a repair, sign up for the email list HERE for advance access.
HOW FREQUENTLY DO YOU ACCEPT REPAIRS?
I open repair booking quarterly - roughly December, March, June and September. I book in advance so I’m working on the last group while processing in and scheduling the next group.
WHAT KIND OF PHOTOS DO I SUBMIT FOR THE APPLICATION?
I’ve created a helpful guide HERE on taking photos of your jeans for repair. Use my guide to help you get your jeans accepted!
WHAT IF MY JEANS ARE NOT ACCEPTED DURING OPEN BOOKING?
If your jeans are not a good fit for a repair, you will receive an email letting you know your application was declined. Limitations such as the current condition of the jean, if your jean has been repaired before in a way that is permanent, fabric content, amount of submissions of that kind or type of fabric/damage may be determining factors. If your jean has been repaired before (not by Indigo Proof) I want to be able to remove that repair to ensure you’re getting a quality repair, not just a band-aid that won’t last with wear. If your jeans have been darned heavily over the seams, there’s lots of layers of patches with darning over them, or the previous repairs have become so integrated into the jean removing them would cause way more damage, it’s possible your jean is not going to be a good fit for repair. If your jeans are extremely soft and thin, your jean may not hold up well with new repairs. The bottom line is: I’m a small operation and can’t always accept every jean unfortunately, even though I wish I could! Not every jean is a good candidate for my method of repair. Again, quality is number one, and if I can’t 100% ensure that on your pair, I’ll let you know!
If you don’t provide enough info, your photos are unclear or if you exceed 2 submissions per person your application will be declined. I limit it to 2 submissions at this time to give more people a chance to apply. I will reopen booking again so you can apply again with more pairs, don’t worry!
DO I HAVE TO WASH MY JEANS BEFORE SENDING THEM?
YES!!! You must machine wash your jeans with soap and water, and dry them completely before sending. If you don’t wash them often (or never), you will probably need to wash them at least twice to ensure they are clean enough for repair. When repairing I take apart seams by hand and darn fabric in very close proximity to my face and hands, and if they are not clean it is unsanitary and very disrespectful to the person repairing your jeans. You can take care of your jeans however you want on your own, but before sending them in for any kind of repair it is absolutely necessary that your jeans are clean and freshly washed for the health and safety of your tailor and not to mention the quality of your repair. Also just a quick note on dry cleaning: it's not a substitute for a wash with water and soap as it does not get rid of odors and is best suited for delicate or trimmed fabrics that cannot be washed in water.
If jeans submitted are not adequately clean, they will be washed for a fee added to your repair price, or in certain cases they will be returned to you and your deposit will be refunded less shipping and DBAA fee.
WHY IS YOUR WASHING POLICY SO STRICT? IS IT CAUSE YOU’RE A JERK? WHY DOES IT MATTER SO MUCH?
Beyond hygienic reasons for this policy, dirty denim actually does not repair as well as clean denim. On clean denim, darning sinks into the weave of the fibers resulting in a seamless repair that ages beautifully. On dirty denim, old sweat and grime caked up on the surface of the weave prevents the darning from sinking into the fabric, resulting in a repair that sits on top of that layer of grime. The dirt is then trapped inside the fabric, and the cotton will not be able to breathe, which causes premature breakage. So, repairing dirty jeans is actually a roundabout and costly way to accelerate the damage and kill your jeans.
If you’re unsure if your jeans are clean enough, either wash them again or have a friend smell them and let you know!
HOW WILL I KNOW HOW MUCH MY REPAIR WILL COST? HOW DOES YOUR PRICING WORK?
When accepted, you will receive a link to put down a repair deposit. The deposit per item is paid up front to initiate an order, ship to Indigo Proof, and to receive an evaluation. It is then used as a credit towards your full repair quote plus shipping. To get a ballpark idea of how much your repair will cost, check out the general pricing sheet here. These are averages and pricing depends on the extent of damage so please use this page as a helpful idea on price, not an exact number.
Repairs are priced based on the work that needs to be done to restore your specific damage on your unique jeans. During evaluations I use my experience and expertise in repairing denim to look your jean over and find all areas in need of repair, reinforcement and replacement, when necessary. Hands-on evaluation allows me to determine the obvious areas needing repair AND the areas of the jean that need reinforcement. This ensures you’re getting the full value of my service and also helps to keep your jeans from needing new or further repairs shortly afterwards. You get what you pay for, right?
I do offer payment plans on invoices and I’m flexible if you need to adjust your invoice due to cost or a changed mind- it’s not an all or nothing situation. However, the less you tell me how to do my job, the better your repair. I’ve spent over a decade looking at damaged denim so I do know what to look for :)
MORE ON PRICING:
This is a very small operation, and every step of the process is done in-house by Rain. From massive reconstructions of blowouts to preventative maintenance, I take the time to repair things right for a truly high quality restoration. All repairs are done in house on my famous workhorse Singer 47w70 darning machine and other specialized industrial machines. The fabric is rewoven and reinforced using thread - that means no bulky patches or crude heavy stitching getting in the way. I especially love to blend thread colors to recreate unique faded denim patterns. Read more about the repair philosophy HERE!
If your damage is significant and your jeans need a lot of repairs or extreme repairs, the cost to repair your jeans will usually out-price the original cost of your jeans. Please do not email me telling me the repair is more than you paid for the jeans - the original price has no bearing on the cost of the labor to repair your jeans. Repair cost is based on the time and labor to repair your jeans, not the retail price.
LET’S TALK CROTCH REPAIRS: HOW ARE INDIGO PROOF REPAIRS DIFFERENT?
Unlike many services out there, I repair all 4 panels of the crotch, taking it apart at the seams to repair the fabric and then reassembling the area matching original construction techniques. This results in the strongest and most aesthetically pleasing repair that really will last the test of time. All darning crotch repairs are 4-panel repairs unless otherwise specified, usually averaging around $150-$175 for most typical crotch wear. More extreme damage (such as ripped through or across seams or holes in the crotch larger or rips longer than a couple inches) can be $200+. Repair cost varies based on severity, placement, construction of the jean and current condition of damage. If your crotch is starting to show signs of breaking down, start wearing them less! The more you wear your jeans with holes, the worse the holes will start to get. Please don’t continue to wear your jeans with major crotch holes - one sudden movement and your minor crotch damage may turn into a major crotch catastrophe! Repairing that situation will cost more than your standard crotch blowout, and will also be less subtle and require more “breaking in” than a regular crotch repair.
WHY ISN’T SHIPPING FREE?
Shipping jeans, especially heavyweight and raw denim, is expensive, and operating this business is more than just sewing labor, so please understand that shipping and handling is not a negotiable cost. I use USPS or UPS Ground shipping with tracking to make sure your jeans arrive safely and quickly!
WHAT IF I DO NOT WANT TO REPAIR MY JEANS AFTER RECEIVING AN INVOICE?
In the event that you elect not to have your jeans repaired after receiving an invoice, your jeans will be returned to you, and your repair order deposit will be refunded less shipping costs and the online merchant processing fee on your order (these fees are not returned to us once your payment goes through so we are unable to refund this charge). This is worst-case scenario though and I’d much rather you communicate with me if there is an issue and we can work it out together. The main goal here is repairing stuff! If you’re going to apply for a repair, place a deposit and then pack and ship something to me, you should be certain you’d like to have your jeans repaired!
WHAT CAN YOU REPAIR ON MY JEANS? DO YOU ONLY REPAIR JEANS? WHAT ABOUT NON-INDIGO DENIM?
Whatever happened to your jeans, I can most likely repair it. From rips, holes, old failed previous repairs, broken zippers, missing/broken buttons or rivets, belt loops, torn buttonholes, ripped pocket bags, shredded pocket entries, back pockets, broken stitching, broken chainstitching, hem reconstructions, and the list goes on!
I can repair and alter pretty much anything made of denim. As far as non-denim items, I occasionally work on pants considered “workwear” and made from heavier, natural-fiber fabrics like canvas, duck, and various heavier weight twills (no chinos, dress pants or anything made of waxed canvas). I have an extensive library of thread colors that covers pretty much every shade of denim - all colors of indigo, stonewashed, black, gray, tan, white, red, purple, green etc! I’m a color and texture matching nerd :)
HEAVYWEIGHT JEANS: CAN YOU REPAIR THEM?
Yes, up to 25oz denim on most brands - I love heavyweight jeans and I’m one of the only repair services in the USA that offers to work on them! Since heavyweight denim requires some different set-ups on machinery and literally is heavier and more difficult to handle, any denim 20oz and up will add additional fees to your total repair cost. Extra heavyweight like 25oz will incur additional labor and shipping costs due to the extreme nature of this fabric.
ANYTHING YOU WON’T ALTER OR REPAIR?
I do not work on: waxed canvas pants or jackets, extremely thinning soft all-over jeans, extra lightweight fabrics, jeggings (leggings disguised as jeans that stretch more than double the size and don’t look like denim), lined garments, chinos or dress pants and Carhartt-type cargo pants and jackets (both lined and unlined). Nothing against Carhartts or work pants! Just not my specialty. If it’s made of denim, I can probably repair it. Yes I do work on denim jackets and occasionally a shirt, however due to the over-engineered nature of construction on certain jackets not all repairs are possible. I assess jackets on a case by case basis, so I’m happy to take a look at yours and let you know what’s possible if submitted for repair.
WHAT ABOUT STRETCH DENIM?
I don’t encourage invisible-style darning repairs on anything that is less than 98% cotton or natural fiber denim. Anything under 98% is too unstable, can fail unexpectedly and does not respond well to darning. Even using percentage as a bracket for repairability is difficult since the fabrics vary in stretch and hand-feel so much. I do offer patching options for anything too stretchy for darning - this will not be an “invisible” style repair like darning repairs. I will patch the jean from the interior inserting into the seams using a similar stretch denim and secure it with a few lines of stitching. The repair will be visible but as subtle as possible, and will allow the area to continue to stretch and move with you. If you submit a stretch jean, you will likely be recommended a patching option. If your jeans have lines of puckering across the lap or seat that means the fabric is breaking down and your jean is not a good candidate for repair. Email me for more info and sample photos of stretch repairs!
ARE MY JEANS TOO DESTROYED TO REPAIR?
Almost anything can be repaired, the real question is “does this make sense to repair for me?” The more destroyed a jean is, the more a repair is going to cost, and the more obvious it’s going to be that extensive repair work was done. If your damage is significant, the cost to repair your jeans can sometimes out-price the new cost of your jeans. This is because skilled repairs take a lot of time, and we take the time to do it right to give you a long lasting and functional, as well as subtle, repair. If your jeans are extremely thin and have rips all over (especially on the front thighs and knees), darning may not be the right answer for your pair, and patching will be recommended. Darning needs enough strong material to weave into for a repair to be done and to last over time. Evaluations are done on a case-by-case basis, and we will let you know what is possible for your pair.
WHAT'S YOUR TURNAROUND TIME?
I’m a very small operation, and turnaround can vary depending on the time of year and current workload, as well as how quickly you follow the steps of the process and respond to any communications on your pair. On average 5-7 weeks. Sometimes longer. Sometimes shorter. It really just depends on what work I have in at the moment! That’s not what’s important. The important thing to remember is that quality is better than speed when it comes to repair, and while you may be without a jean for a month or two the lifespan your jean will gain back through repair and reinforcement will be far greater than that measly down time! Quality is much more important than speed!
I’M LOCAL, CAN I COME BY AND DROP OFF MY JEANS? MY JEAN WAS ACCEPTED BUT CAN I DROP OFF INSTEAD OF MAIL THEM?
Unfortunately I do not accept repair or alteration drop-offs in person, and my studio does not have open hours. I know if you live here, it seems to make sense that dropping your pair off is easiest, but I need a return address and deposit for all repairs to ensure no jeans are left behind unloved and unpaid. All clients, no matter where you live apply during open booking — join the email list (SIGN UP HERE)! All alterations services are available via mail-order, email to get started.
INTERNATIONAL REPAIR POLICY:
If you would like a repair and live outside the US - please email me in advance! Customs restrictions have recently changed for businesses since 2020 and unfortunately I am not able to ship to all destinations outside the US but I’m happy to look into it for you!
MY JEANS HAVE BEEN REPAIRED PREVIOUSLY, CAN YOU REWORK AN OLD REPAIR?
It really depends on the repair. All repairs previously done by Indigo Proof can be re-repaired (unless otherwise specified). I will not accept jeans with previous repairs using tape, glue, iron-on interfacing or anything sticky, unless replacement is an option - such as front pocket replacement. Darning repairs from other repair services can occasionally be fully removed and re-worked if they are minimally stitched on; sometimes I can remove parts of it to re-work; and sometimes I can’t work with it at all if the repairs are very thick or there are multiple patches or layers of patches and small tiny darning stitches. Repairs using hand-stitching can usually always be re-repaired, and hand-stitching is a great way to keep things together when you’re in a bind or between open bookings.
During the repair application process you will be able to upload photos of your damaged jean and I will let you know if re-repair is possible. Occasionally a repair will be accepted and the repair is not able to be removed - in that case I will need to work around the area, or decline it at that time if re-repair is not possible in that area.
SHOULD I REMOVE OLD REPAIR WORK BEFORE SENDING? DO YOU CHARGE TO REMOVE OLD REPAIR WORK?
I’ve seen (and seam-ripped out) my fair share of attempted home repairs gone wrong. If your jeans have prior repair work, whether you did hand-stitching or a zig-zag on a home machine, or maybe took it to a local dry-cleaner type tailor place for a quick patching job—grab a seam ripper and spend some time watching "The True Cost" on Netflix while removing the old work before sending it my way :) If your jeans have been patched, you can remove it pretty easily from the inside - that way you won’t damage the jeans further. If you do not feel comfortable with a seam ripper, or there’s a lot of layers of stitching on your old repair, don’t attempt to do this!
In the service of providing the best possible repairs, I do attempt to remove prior repairs when possible. Hand stitching and zig-zag stitching on a home machine is usually fully removable. I do include the removal charge in the repair fee - unpicking stitches is difficult tedious work and sometimes can take a hours of time to remove entirely. This results in a removal cost- anywhere from $20-$65+ depending on how much work there is. Removing old repairs when possible allows me to repair your jean better!
STILL HAVE A QUESTION? AWESOME! EMAIL: info@indigoproof.com